Information - The Protector Of A Busted Wallet

While photos may be doctored, or taken at angles that do not represent the actual state and condition of the car, there is no other better way in making an informed assessment (of course other than flying there directly and carrying out a physical visual inspection) other than asking for them and getting as much information on the car’s mechanicals and bodywork as you can. Ask as much as you want. It is your right to know all that is needed to know before you procceed with your buy. Do not for a minute feel like a lame-arse even if the seller says you’re asking stupid questions. Better a lame-arse now, than a screwed-arse later.

Get photos of the following:

• The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) (*) – which will normally be on a stamped piece rivetted at the bottom of the upper dash pad (visible from the windscreen), or along one of the A-pillars
• The engine number (*)
• The undercarriage, where possible
• The engine bay (from different angles - front, left, and right) - look out for heavy oil stains
• All body panels – doors, fenders, bumpers, boot, and roof
• All panel gaps
• Wheels - to assess the suspension set-up by how well and evenly the car sits
• Interior – seats, dashboard, gauges, internal panels

(note * : you will need to match the VIN number with the ownership title and the engine number for importation purposes - so get visual evidence first)

If the car shows only signs of surface rust, depending on what you are paying for it, it should still be ok to proceed with your buy. Nothing that a little sanding and sand-blasting cannot fix. However, if there are visible signs of rust rot, especially on the undercarriage, chassis, and the bottom of the door panels, I would suggest looking for another for obvious reasons.

Be wary of cars from the Northern, Eastern and some Southern parts of the United States (particularly Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, New York, Vermont, Massachussets, Maine, New Jersey, Ohio & Pennsylvania) as roads are winter-prepped with salts, and these salts promote metal corrosion and rust. There may be cars which spend most of their lives in the ‘Rust Belt’ states, but shipped over to the Central or West Coast States over the years because of various circumstances. Know the history of the car, and where possible, ask for copies of the Original Title as it will tell you about the car’s history. My baby was rolled out of a GM plant in Colorado and hadn’t moved out of Denver for the past 32 years. So that was all good.